Wave refraction and focusing describe how waves bend, converge, or disperse as they interact with variations in seabed topography and depth. When part of a wave slows in shallower water while another continues faster in deeper zones, its direction changes — a process known as wave refraction. Focusing occurs when multiple refracted waves converge, amplifying energy and height at specific points, as seen in point breaks and reef setups. These mechanisms influence wave energy distribution, impacting surf spot formation and the quality of flow dynamics near the shore.
Shapers and surfers interpret refraction and focusing patterns to design and select boards suited for different wave types and speed-control behaviors.
Shapers and surfers interpret refraction and focusing patterns to design and select boards suited for different wave types and speed-control behaviors.
